The best bottles don’t necessarily meet some objective standard. Instead, they are the ones that you can’t forget, that have meaning and tell stories. more

De Conciliis Paestum Aglianico Naima 2010

At Don Angie in New York in early November, I drank a 2010 De Conciliis Naima from the Paestum region of Campania.

The wine was 100 percent aglianico, a reminder of how great this red grape can be when grown on the volcanic soils of its home territory in southern Italy. Bottles intended to be fresh and fruity can be enjoyed right away, but wines like Naima, named for a John Coltrane ballad, need time.

At nine years, the tannins were resolving but still gave the wine spine and structure. The flavors were deep and beautiful — dark fruits evolving into the realm of earth, licorice and tar. It was a joyous bottle, and one that I cannot stop thinking about.