Wine Spectator - Vignaioli Selection


Wine Spectator April 2012 Rocche dei Manzoni Pianpolvere Soprano Barolo Bussia Riserva 2007 The aromas start out oaky, showing cedar, vanilla and clove elements, before turning to raspberry and flowers on the palate. Licorice, tar and tobacco flavors reign, allied to a firm texture of gripping tannins. The long, smoky finish heralds its potential. 97 Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004 Silky and elegant, offering finely meshed layers of date, chocolate-covered cherry and dried fig, with a streak of minerality and subtle, juicy acidity. A hint of sweet smoke lingers in the refined finish. 91 March 2012 Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Rocche 2007 This red is extremely fresh, showing floral, cherry, raspberry and bilberry aromas and flavors, with a hint of tar. Elegant and taut, with a linear profile despite its ripeness and a long, lively aftertaste of sweet fruit and spice. 95 October 2011 Il Faggeto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pietranera Riserva 2004 The purity in this red is striking, offering raspberry, peony, mineral and spice aromas and flavors, which unfold seamlessly, lending an impression of weightlessness, yet there's intensity and structure. The terrific aftertaste offers sweet fruit and mineral notes, with tannins that will allow this to develop further. 95 Il Faggeto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pietra del Diavolo 2008 Laced with iron and sanguine notes, this cherry-flavored red shows grip and complexity. Its layers unfold through the firmly structured finish, all well-balanced and long. 90 Nicolis Amarone Classico Ambrosan 2004 Offers an aromatic mix of kirsch, dried roses, dried marjoram, blackberry candy, cardamom, fresh earth and smoke, with supple tannins and ripe acidity. There's power to this, but it's wrapped in a silky texture that results in an overall vibrant, stylish impression. A hint of espresso lingers on the finish. 94 September 2011 Nicolis Valpolicella Classico Superiore Seccal Ripasso 2007 There's a smoky undercurrent to this refined and silky red, with fine-grained tannins and lightly mouthwatering acidity that focuses flavors of kirsch, grilled plum, pomegranate and mulling spices, followed by a hint of graphite on the finish. 90 August 2011 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2006 A meaty, sinewy style, this red deals black cherry, plum, tobacco and briar flavors, backed by dense, muscular tannins. This is also bright and pure, leading to a long, fruit and tannin-filled finish. 93 Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Penetrating aromas of cherry, raspberry and wild herbs are followed by hints of tar and licorice in this elegant Brunello. This is supple, then turns firm on the finish, where there is a lingering aftertaste of mineral. 92 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Delivers a mix of cherry, raspberry and cocoa aromas and flavors, picking up spice and tobacco elements on the finish. This is open and inviting, tightening up on the finish. 9 1 Begali Amarone Classico Monte Ca' Bianca 2004 This burly monster of a red is nonetheless silky and smooth in texture. The flavors of prune and currant preserves in this still-firm 2004 show accents of ash and petrol, along with tarry tannins and subtle, underlying subnote of dried herbs, including mint and oregano. There's a sweet, smoky quality throughout, lingering on the dried cherry-tingled finish. 95 July 2011 Begali Classico Superiore Ripasso 2008 A spiced red, with lots of herbes de Provence and fennel seed accents to the currant and damson plum fruit flavors. A smoky baseline of minerality and medium-weight tannins support this silky red, with a dark espresso note lingering on the finish. 91 Nicolis Valpolicella Classico Superiore Seccal Ripasso 2006 A velvety red, with kirsch, blackberry and currant jam flavors that show hints of chocolate shavings, sweet tobacco and graphite. Well-balanced and expressive, with an overall aromatic, spiced profile. 90 June 2011 Tenuta di Trecciano Daniello 2006 This enticing red balances its sweet black cherry, blackberry and spice flavors with a lush texture and refined, well-integrated tannins. International in style, with the vibrant acidity showing Italian roots. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. 93 May 2011 Tenuta di Trecciano I Campacci 2007 There's a nice combination of bright cherry, plum, herb and tobacco aromas and flavors in this firmly structured red, which has dense tannins, but it's well balanced and long. Sangiovese and Merlot. 90 April 2011 Scarzello Vigna Merenda 2005 This isn't yet showing roses, but classic tar, licorice and macerated cherry aromas and flavors hold in court in this dense, yet sweet and concentrated, Barolo. This is bright and chewy in texture, boasting an endless aftertaste of licorice and spices. 94 March 2011 Ronco del Gnemiz Sauvignon Colli Orientali del Friuli Sol 2003 A subtle white, displaying fresh acidity that adds a lovely juiciness to the hints of quince paste, peach pit, verbena, tarragon and lemon peel. There's a stoniness here, with a mineral note running throughout. The texture is light-weight and lacy overall, despite the many layers of flavor. 91 Ronco del Gnemiz Sauvignon Colli Orientali del Friuli 2008 A spiced version of Sauvignon, with atypical black cherry, licorice, and peach pit flavors mixing with citrus zest and smoke notes. Acidity is front and center, but this is well-balanced overall. 90 February 2011 Antico Broilo Friulano Colli Orientali del Friuli 2007 Hints of medicinal herbs, myrhh and black licorice focus this elegant white. Its herb and spice overtones mix with dried apple, pastry, smoke and peach pit notes, back by well-integrated, but still bright, acidity. Intriguing. 91 November 2010 La Querciola Barolo 'Donna Bianca' 2004 Massive and chunky, yet concentrated, with cherry, tobacco, iron, and mineral flavors. The sweet fruit and texture easily match the dense tannins, and the finish lingers gracefully with a hint of truffle. 94 San Giuliano Barbaresco 2006 Starting to come around, offering loads of liquorice, tar, dried cherry and tobacco aromas and flavors. This is aromatic and solid, yet shows a core of sweet fruit and a long, liquorice and mineral infused aftertaste. 93 Scarzello Barolo Vigna Merenda 2004 Though firm, there's a sense of elegance to this, from its cherry, sweet liquorice, saline and mineral aromas and flavors to its supple texture and long aftertaste. Balanced overall, with a chalky feel on the finish. 92 Scarzello Nebbiolo Langhe 2007 90 October 2010 Tenuta di Trecciano I Campacci 2008 Dense and rich, with ripe berry, toasty oak and milk chocolate character that's full and powerful. Long and velvety-textured. The new wood is showing a lot now, but will melt into the wine with bottle age. Sangiovese and Merlot. 91 September 2010 (Insider Edition) La Querciola Barolo 'Donna Bianca' 2004 94 Scarzello Barolo Vigna Merenda 2004 92 July 2010 Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca' Bianca 2005 91 April 2010 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Fontelontano Riserva 2004 97 Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2005 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2005 90 April 2009 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 2004 Crushed raspberries, cherries and strawberries, with flowers, a hint of vanilla bea. Powerful and complex 95 Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2004 93 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2004 90 May 2008 Sighardt Donabaum Riesling 1000Eimerberg 2006 92 April 2008 Sighardt Donabaum Grüner Veltliner Zornberg 2006 93 Sighardt Donabaum Grüner Veltliner Atzberg 2006 92 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2003 90 February 2008 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Fontelontano Riserva 2001 93 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001 Ada Nada Barbaresco Cichin 2004 Ada Nada Barbaresco Elisa 2001 92 Ada Nada Barbaresco Elisa 2004 91 Ada Nada Barbaresco Valeirano 2004 Fattoria Sovestro Cortegiano 2005 90 December 2007 Ada Nada Barbaresco Cichin 2004 92 April 2007 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Fontelontano Riserva 2001 93 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001 92 January 2007 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 2001 90 April 30, 2006 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2001 89 Enticing aromas of dried flowers, berry and lightly toasted oak follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a long, sliky finish. Best after 2006. 850 cases made. January 31-February 28, 2006 Paolo Conterno Barolo 2001 89 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra 2001 91 Ada Nada Barbaresco Cichin 2000 89 Ada Nada Barbaresco Valeirano2000 89 Ada Nada Langhe La Bisbetica 2001 87 Ada Nada Langhe La Bisbetica 2000 88 Tenuta Di Trecciano Toscana I Campacci 2003 87 Lorenzo Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca Bianca 2000 90 Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicaella Classico 2000 87 Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ambrosan 2000 91 Ronco del Gnemiz Merlot Colli Orientali del Friuli Sol 2001 87 Sighardt Donabaum Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Atzberg 2003 88 Sighardt Donabaum Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Zornberg 2003 88 Sighardt Donabaum Riesling Smaragd Trocken Wachau Brandstatt 2003 88 Riesling Smaragd Trocken Wachau Tausendeimerberg 2003 91 October 31, 2005 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Fontelontano Riserva 1999 90 Pretty floral and blackberry aromas, with full body and fine tannins. Very refined and complex. Drink now. Begali Verona Tigiolo 2002 88 A firm young wine, with slightly jammy plum and a chocolate edge. Medium-bodied, with good fruit and chocolate on the finish. Corvina and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2005. 330 cases made. Trecciano Toscana I Campacci 2003 87 A pleasant wine with lots of strawberry jam character. Medium- to full-bodied, with round tannins and a simple finish. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best after 2006, 1,000 cases made. Begali Valpolicella Classico Superiore Vigneto La Cengia 2003 86 A good, traditional-style Valpolicella, with grape skin, damson and light floral and mineral aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with medium, fruit-coated tannins and a minerally finish. Drink now. 1.250 cases made. October 15, 2005 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra 2001 91 Intense aromas of ripe fruit, grilled meat and hardwoods. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Big and juicy. Slightly closed-in, but shows excellent potential. Slightly rustic. Best after 2008. July 13, 2005 Tasting Highlights: Amarone Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ambrosan 2000 91 Enticing nose, with currants and raisins, violets and a hint of coffee and chocolate. Full-bodied, with a fine mix of fruit, sweet spice and minerals, with well-integrated tannins and a long, fresh, spicy fruit finish. Very well made and fun to drink. This is the wine to buy from this producer. Drink now. Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Ca' Bianca 2000 90 A tight package, with dried cherry, blackberry and minerals against a backbone of cedary oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins and a spicy oak and dried fruit finish. Very cleanly made, it now needs to open. This is a new winery to watch. Best after 2006. May 15, 2005 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Fontelontano Riserva 1999 90 Pretty floral and blackberry aromas, with full body and fine tannins. Very refined and complex. Drink now Sighardt Donabaum Riesling Smaragd Trocken Wachau Tausendeimerberg 2003 91 If the floral, peach and mineral aromas and flavors don't seduce you, the silky texture will. Caressing, with an innate sense of power. Stylish and well-integrated, with a long, peppery finish. Drink now through 2012. 35 cases imported. Sighardt Donabaum Riesling Smaragd Trocken Wachau Brandstatt 2003 88 Baked apple is the main theme, with hints of peach and citrus. Tasty and will deliver a lot of pleasure. Drink now through 2007. 35 cases imported. Sighardt Donabaum Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Atzberg 2003 88 Corpulent, packing its frame with vanilla pastry, baking bread and butter notes, showing accents of citrus and mineral. Forward. Will gain length over time. Drink now through 2009. 50 cases imported. January 31, 2005 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra 2000 93 Attractive plum and dried mushroom aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with soft and silky tannins and a fruity finish. Layers of lovely fruit and character. Best after 2008. 1,800 cases made. January 15, 2005 The Top 100 Wines of 2004 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998 September 15, 2004 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998 95 Beautiful aromas of toasted oak, berry and grilled meat follow through to a full-bodied palate, with loads of velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Rich and decadent. Superb. Replay of the 1997. Drink now. 100 cases of 6 bottles made. Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998 'Fonte Lontano' 91 A tight and solid wine. Big and cherry. Full-bodied, with plenty of blackberry and tobacco character. Long finish. Best after 2004. 120 cases of 6 bottles made. May 15, 2004 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 1999 90 A smoky, ripe, almost raisiny red with a full body, soft, big tannins and a long finish. Best after 2005. 830 cases made. Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 1999 89 Slightly earthy but blows off to plenty of ripe berry and cherry character on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Best after 2005. 555 cases made. April 30, 2004 Sighardt Donabaum Gruner Veltliner 2002 88 Concentrated flavors of peach, vanilla custard and mineral. It's balanced and moderately firm. Satisfying. Drink now through 2007. Only 420 cases made. November 30, 2003 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra 1999 92 Stunning aromas of crushed berries and freshly sliced plums, with hints of orange peel and lemon. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a very long, rich finish. Best after 2007. 990 cases made. Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra Riserva 1998 92 A velvety wine you have to love. Beautiful blackberry and spice aromas follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins and a long, luscious finish. Best after 2007. 230 cases made. July 31, 2003 Owen Sullivan Cabernet Franc Champoux Vineyard 2001 90 Ripe and generous in flavor, relatively light and supple in texture. A lovely mouthful of cherry and cream flavors, hinting at white pepper on the generous, tangy finish. Drink now through 2006. 250 cases made. Owen Sullivan Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 90 Fine and generous, a lovely mouthful of fresh plum and berry flavors shaded with coffee and spice, melded together beautifully with finesse through the lengthy finish. Drink now through 2010. 200 cases made. May 15, 2003 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997 96 Twenty-nine-year-old Fabio Giannetti has been running his family’s 11-acre family estate, northeast of the town of Montalcino, since 1998. This riserva comes from the nearly 2-acre Il Poggio vineyard, which was planted in 1974, Giannetti’s birth year. After two and a half years in large Slovenian oak casks, the wine is transferred to French oak barrels for a further eight months before bottling. It gives off gorgeous aromas of crushed raspberries and currants, with hints of blackberries. Then it turns spicy and minty. Full-bodied and super well-knit, with a silky, refined tannin structure that only deft vinemaking produces. Firm and tight still. Give this time. Best after 2006. La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 1998 90 Lovely floral, berry and mineral aromas follow through to the medium-bodied palate, with super well-integrated tannins and a long finish. Lovely and harmonious. Best after 2003. Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 1998 90 Subtle, yet complex aromas of flowers, berries and cherries. Full-bodied, but very balanced, with a silky mouthfeel and a long finish. Equals the quality of 1997. Best after 2004. April 2003 Sighardt Donabaum Gruner Veltliner 2001 90 Rich, opulent even, with legume, green tea and lanolin notes seemingly suspended on the accessible texture. Harmonious, with subtle length. Drink now through 2010. 1,000 cases made. $19 Sighardt Donabaum Riesling 2001 89 Lovely aromas and flavors of peach, passion fruit, spice and mineral glide across the palate, mingling with the vibrant structure and silky texture. Gets course on the finish, where a peppery note emerges. Best from 2004-2010. 930 cases made. $19 Sighardt Donabaum Gewurtztraminer 88 Fragrant and dry, this spice and floral-flavored white exhibits typical varietal character, with more acidity than usual and a hint of mineral on the finish. Drink now. 1,000 cases made. $19 July 2002 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra Riserva 1996 91 Racy and fine. Aromatic red, with plum, cedar, and spice character. Full-bodied with well integrated tannins and caressing rich finish. Very long. Best after 2003. Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra 1997 92 Big, mouth-puckering Barolo. Give it time in the bottle to mellow. Aromas of plums, coffee and spices follow through to a full-bodied palate, with thick and chewy tannins, and a long, long spicy finish. Best after 2005. June 2002 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 1997 90 A ripe and earthy red, with hints of incense. Full-bodied, with chunky tannins and a solid center-palate of fruit and ripe tannins. Closed now. Give it time. Best after 2003. La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 1997 93 Breathtaking aromas of ripe plums, smoke and minerals. Full-bodied, extremely polished and silky. Elegant and racy. A refined Sangiovese. Drink now through 2010. 650 cases made. May 2002 Ronco del Gnemiz Chardonnay 1999 90 Similar to a fine Burgundy. Subtle and complex aromas of minerals, apples, lightly toasted oak and limes. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine acidity and a long lively, flavorful finish. Needs some bottle age. est after 2002. 610 cases made. Ronco del Gnemiz Pinot Grigio 2000 87 Aromas of exotic fruit, with almonds and pears. Medium-bodied, with mineral, light apple and grapefruit. A pleasant and friendly wine. Drink now. 800 cases made.